Oval Crocheted Rag Rug - finish and a pattern

I did it!  I managed to figure my way through the maths of creating an oval(ish) crocheted rag rug and I now have a finished rug and a FAL Qtr 3 list result!

Being totally honest this is my first ever attempt at drafting a pattern and I'm sure it isn't perfect.  More experienced crocheters and pattern writers will no doubt spot flaws but, if you could live with your rug being the shape that mine is above then perhaps you can try the pattern at the bottom of this post for yourself.

Before you get to the pattern, here are some hints and tips from my experience:

1.  Brace your fingers - this is a bit industrial!

2.  Using safety pins to mark the slip stitch at the end of the round and to mark the beginnings of each curved section and each straight section is very helpful for all the counting involved and makes it easier to spot early if something has gone wrong.  Pic to illustrate is on this post.

3.  I used 1" cotton fabric scrap strips for this project.  Again, this post explains briefly how I stitched them into rolls.

4.  This rug is fantastic for using up leftovers from other projects or for recycling cotton or polycotton items you might be finished with.  I used poplins (these were good because they frayed less than others), quilting cotton scraps, klona cotton (which was heavier and a little harder to work with but still possible), old duvet cover and pillowcase remnants, those offcuts from quilt backings like Ikea Nummers which are too small to be useful because of the large scale of the pattern, lighter weight fqs which I ordered before realising they weren't such great quality and a few ugly fabrics that I knew I would never use in anything else (remember, in strips and crocheted in you cannot tell they were once uglies).

5.  I discovered that working with my 1" strips and 10mm hook each round grew the size of the rug by approx 1" width and height.

6.  While I didn't measure how much fabric I was using (because I simply went to my scrap bins to make these rolls) I worked out that 1 dc used approx 6" length of fabric.

7.  Throughout the process my rug was occasionally wavy in the middle (not at the edges where it indicates a problem with the increases).  All it needed was a gentle stretch to flatten it all out each round.

8.  It is a bit messy as all those strips tend to shed fluff and fibres as you work with them.

9.  Although rag rugs aren't particularly something I love, I had a creative itch to scratch just to see if I could make one.  I'm so glad I did.  I had fun making it and I do quite like this wee scrappy rug even if I won't be decorating my whole house with them!

10.  The finished rug is 34" x 24" which, for those of you who are quilters, is approx the size of a large cutting mat.  It would make a great bath mat size too.

Ok, so on to what you came for:

Oval Crocheted Rag Rug - Pattern

Fabric strips 1” wide

10mm crochet hook

Rug approx 34" x 24"

Work dc into the back loop only of the dc from prev round.

NB -  For this rug I made all of my double crochet (dc) stitches into the back loop of the previous row, not through both loop of the prev stitch. (See pic above.)

UK terms

ch = chain

dc = double crochet  (US equiv = single crochet)

sl st = slip stitch

Ch 17. 

(You could adjust this number of chains to elongate the rug.  If you do, you will end up with 2 less dc stitches than the no of ch you make and you will have to adjust the number in blue in the pattern for every round to your number of stitches.)

Round 1

dc into 2^nd ch from hook, 1 dc in back loop only of next 15 ch, 3dc in last ch; continue along the other side of the foundation chain (so that you are working in a round) working 1 dc in the remaining loop of each of the next 15 ch, 2 dc in the first ch of this round, join with a sl st to first ch.  (Your curved ends will now have 3 sts each.)

Adding the safety pin marker in the sl st is a good indicator of the beginning of each round
and a reminder NOT to work into the sl st.

(I found it easier to mark this slip stitch with a safety pin and yarn after making it, as you do not want to work into it in any of the next rounds.  Move the safety pin up to mark the slip stitch made at the end of every round as you progress. It also helpfully identifies the starting point of the rounds as you go along.)

Round 2

Ch1, 1 dc into same place as sl st, 1 dc in next 15 dc, 2dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 6 sts each.)

Round 3

Ch1, 1 dc into same place as sl st, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc) twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 9 sts each.)

Round 4

Ch1, 1 dc into same place as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 12 sts each.)

Round 5

Ch1, 1 dc into same place as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc) twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 15 sts each.)

Round 6

Ch1, 1 dc next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 2 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 2 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 18 sts each.)

Round 7

Ch1, 1 dc next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 3 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 3 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 21 sts each.)

Round 8

Ch1, 1 dc next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 2 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 2 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 24 sts each.)

Round 9

Ch1, 1 dc next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 4 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 4 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 27 sts each.)

Round 10

Ch1, 1 dc next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 6 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 6 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 30 sts each.)

Round 11

Ch1, 1 dc next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 3 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 3 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 33 sts each.)

Round 12

Ch1, 1 dc next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 5 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 5 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 36 sts each.)

Round 13

Ch1, 1 dc next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 7 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 7 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 39 sts each.)

Round 14

Ch1, 1 dc next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 3 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 3 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 9 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 42 sts each.)

Round 15

Ch1, 1 dc next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 9 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 9 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 45 sts each.)

Round 16

Ch1, 1 dc next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 7 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 7 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 48 sts each.)

Round 17

Ch1, 1 dc next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 10 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 10 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 51 sts each.)

Round 18

Ch1, 1 dc next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 12 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 4 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 12 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 4 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 12 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 54 sts each.)

Round 19

Ch1, 1 dc next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 10 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 10 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 57 sts each.)

Round 20

Ch1, 1 dc next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 13 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 5 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 13 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 5 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 13 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 60 sts each.)

Round 21

Ch1, 1 dc next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 12 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 12 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 7 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 63 sts each.)

Round 22

Ch1, 1 dc next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 12 dc, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 8 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 12 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in next 15 dc, (1dc in next 8 dc,  2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 12 dc)  twice, join with sl st to first ch. (Your curved ends will now have 66 sts each.)

Fasten off.  Stretch out your rug and admire.

If you are keen to try a rug for yourself, I hope that this pattern will work out for you.

Drawstring Bags

So, how's your summer sewing going?  Are you taking it easy and enjoying creative freedom in the lighter evenings?   Are you valiantly tackling a list of summer plans?  Or are your stitchy moments going in a totally different direction than you'd expected?

Me?  I have a list and I look at it occasionally and then reach for something different!  The quilts on my list are not inspiring me and I just think I'm a little tired and my mojo is a wee bit overwhelmed by them.   I seem to be gravitating towards the more contained projects, rather than longer term ones.

You have to admit that for near-instant gratification on the sewing front, drawstring bags are hard to beat.  Especially when you make them in pretty fabrics - think these are all Lori Holt's Bake Sale line.

Boring, functional, enormous drawstring bags (made as a tent bag at hubby's request 26" x 42") are not so gratifying but at least they are quick!  This one has some reinforced stitching and heavy duty cotton drill fabric to withstand the abuse it will receive.  Hubby is very impressed at the drawstring and spring toggle I fitted - I shall not disabuse him of his misconception that it was tricky.

Aside from the drawstring bags, I have been filling in spare little spaces in my evenings with more counting, hooking and recording for the oval crocheted rag rug.  I didn't manage too much last week but it is growing a little and is now approx 20" x 12".  Shaping up not too badly. I wonder how far I will get before my strip rolls run out?  This is two of the seven rolls I made up.

So whether you are stitching or taking a wee break, I hope you are enjoying the summer so far.

Crocheted Rag Rug - Beginning of a journey

You may recall that back at the end of August I posted my fabric scrap rolls which I said were destined to become a crocheted rag rug just because I've always fancied having a go at one really, and it would use up those skinny strips I otherwise don't have a scrappy purpose for.

I would really like my rug to be oval (or probably more correctly a rectangle with rounded ends) but it is surprisingly difficult to track down a tutorial for one online.  The one I did find started out well -

I posted my late night pic on IG and had lots of kind admirers.  I think the random scrappiness of the fabrics caught folks' attention.  Then about 2 rounds later none of the counting seemed to be right, the increases for the rounded end were coming in the middle of the straight side and I just didn't know where I'd gone wrong.  I took a few rounds out and was meticulous this time but same issue repeated.  Clearly this pattern and I were having communication issues.

So, I ripped it back and tried another pattern for oval crochet and ended up with this wavy thing.  A little online research suggested that the waviness was due to too many increases for the curved ends, so continuing with this pattern was only going to compound the problem round by round.  Needed a different approach, so I left this one aside and picked up a new fabric roll.

Attempt no 3 is looking much better!  Basically, I am now working it out as I go along.  I've been a diligent little bunny and am painstakingly applying the principles I noticed in the original patterns to my own counting and it seems to be working so far.  I've used basting pins to mark the beginnings of the each curved section and each straight section (helps a lot with all the counting involved) and a basting pin with wool tail over there in the curved pink gingham end to help me identify the slip stitch at the end of each row which I am NOT supposed to work into (but did several times).  I seem to be getting there, though oval crochet advice hereforward suggests I need to start randomising the placement of the increase around the curved ends to avoid a half hexagon look.  Not sure how good I'll be at "randomising" but I'll give it a go in the name of crocheted rag rug happiness!!

I've had a few questions about my fabric rolls on IG, so thought I'd just quickly recap here.  My strips are all 1" wide lengths of leftovers that were too small for any other scrappy purpose.  From my reading I know folks have used strips as small as 0.5" wide too.  Not sure how wide they've gone but I wouldn't really like to be much wider than the 1" myself.

Making up the rolls is fairly mindless.  I simply stitched the strips together with a straight 0.25" seam allowance.  My advice is just to make sure you backstitch the whole 1" seam for a little security when working the crochet stitches.

Initially, I did try joining them at an angle like you do with binding, but this rug isn't a precision thing, so straight seams aren't going to be an issue, and they're much quicker than the angled ones!   When I'm coming to the end of a roll while crocheting, I can just stitch the end of the last strip to the starter strip of a new roll (unless I want to join as you would normal yarn and bury the tail ends as I go).  Not much to it all really.

Back in April I had a whole bin full of 1" strips to work through which suited that time but I wouldn't necessarily want to face them in this marathon way again.  If I trim the strips to 1" as I am tidying away other projects and sew them together a few every now and then my rolls could gather gradually.

So, there you have it, the beginning of my rag rug adventure.  Wish me well with the continuation of the pattern, I REALLY want this to work.